A little help please

'Help with Engine related Problems here.

A little help please

Postby Mrs. Ronin » Jun 3rd, '06, 12:46

Alright my husband Ronin, appears to have blown a cylinder. there is no compression in #7. While at the Dyno Shop the first time to have it "Tuned" they proceeded to inform me that my spark plug wires were being burned through, I guess the aftermarket headers burn them or something. So they change those and toss it on the dyno. They claim it is running just fine and not to worry. We had it in there because the computer kept the Check Engine light on and it said it was running rich in 2 banks. Well while it was on the dyno it proceeded to blow the dip stick and shoot oil everywhere! They claim it is fixed no problems if we want it tuned for racing let them know! Oh they had to change the fuel filter to cause they said it was bad. $1000 and we pick it up. Light comes back on on the drive home and NOW the fuel pump is obnoxiously loud!
SO I was driving it the other day and it starts smoking like a chimney! Smoke coming from EVERYWHERE!!! I figured some of it was the oil burning off that got all over. Hubby took it in and had the oil changed cause the low oil light came on. Still smoking we take it back to the Dyno Shop. They decide to do a compression test on it and find that cylinder 7 is gone! They want an outrageous amount of money just to pull the engine out! THEN it would have to go to a machine shop and get sleeved and a new piston and lovely stuff, THEN another outrageous amount of money to put it back in. Can't afford that on military pay!
So here is my thought that I need some input on.........Should I bother doing this to the stock engine OR should I get aftermarket stuff and bolt it on and if I should go that route what should I get? He has a Vortech supercharger and a million other things on it so is there something out there that will cope with the power he has better then stock?
Any help would be great. Websites, #s, a good shop in the southern CA area!
Thanks
Mrs. Ronin
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Postby YELLERR » Jun 4th, '06, 23:28

WOW! Man, that suchs!
Off hand I don't know of any shops in the S. Ca. area.
You guy's might just need a short block, (the bottom end). Your heads might be OK. But check them.
Finding a good shop isn't easy eather too. There has to be some one down there that can help you out.
But, in order to fix it ya'll have to break down the motor and see.
Good luck and I hope it all works out for you guy's.
Ron
Exhaust; SLP LT, 3' Y-pipe to V-Force chambered muffler with dual dual chrome tips Suspension; Bilstein shocks, Eibach springs, 21mm rear sway bar 32 front, BMR track bar(a just able), panhard rod, tubular control arms. All w/poly bushings. 373 gear with Eton limited-slip posi, T/A cover. Slot Rotors, Hawk Pads, Earl's Hyperfirm brake lines. Hurst line lock. Trans; 3200 stall,Trans go shift kit, 3qt sub pan, B&M cooler. SLP Strut sub frame connectors(bolt on), Graniteli driveline loop, American racing wheels 17/11.Rear;NT555315/35RNittos Induction; SLP Lid. MAF;de-screened with ends. Polished TB, TB by-pass, 180 stat. B-G Ram air System(hood). ASP under drive pulley. Heads; CNC ported. Cam 222/220 566/564 114lsa. Manly hardened pushrods. Car#738. 159 out of 510 T-Tops A4. All options but no TC. NA;362rwhp 354rwtq NOS (100 shot) 450rwhp 450rwtq
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Postby Mrs. Ronin » Jun 9th, '06, 09:43

Yeah I already planned on breaking down the motor, I was just wondering if rather then put the stock block back on, is there a good aftermarket one that would be better? AND while I have the engine out is there anything I should do to make the car better and save me having to pull the engine again?
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Postby pmdramair » Jun 10th, '06, 06:59

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I don't know if you use Ebay, sometimes they have salvaged LS1 for sale. Geographic location is important with shipping. I'll do some looking on EBay for you.
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Postby pmdramair » Jun 10th, '06, 07:19

I'm not sure how close you live to Lancaster CA? Here is a LS1 Block, Crank and Cam for sale http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-ENGI ... 7844QQrdZ1
2002 Collectors Edition Trans Am T-top Coupe
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ASC#1160 01/29/2002
1969 Firebird 400 "Goldenrod Yellow"
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Postby Mrs. Ronin » Jun 12th, '06, 22:51

Great thanks! I will try that. I want to be able to put the car back to running.
I would like to make it as nice as possible.
I have been reading and have discovered the #7 cylinder is a sore spot on the LS1, Why is that? What is wrong with it? How do you prevent any problems?
Any help you can give would be great.
Thanks
Amber
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Re: I'm agree with you!

Postby YELLERR » Mar 26th, '09, 09:44

[quote="abcd247"]I'm agree with you!
Yep and yet here's another :spam: craper abcd247!
abcd247 :ot
Well another F&%K&n retard is back. abcd247 Go away! Your sh^t is fake and all your doing is ripping people off with your cheep fake shit! and know one here gives a crap! Your always :ot I need to :pisson: abcd247 and :toilet you and your fake shit down the drain! See people in the USA would get shut down for doing what your doing. Being that your in another part of the world you can get by with this :spam: sh^t you dish out to us in the USA. Me= :kill =abcd247
:smack: :smack: :smack:
Ron
Exhaust; SLP LT, 3' Y-pipe to V-Force chambered muffler with dual dual chrome tips Suspension; Bilstein shocks, Eibach springs, 21mm rear sway bar 32 front, BMR track bar(a just able), panhard rod, tubular control arms. All w/poly bushings. 373 gear with Eton limited-slip posi, T/A cover. Slot Rotors, Hawk Pads, Earl's Hyperfirm brake lines. Hurst line lock. Trans; 3200 stall,Trans go shift kit, 3qt sub pan, B&M cooler. SLP Strut sub frame connectors(bolt on), Graniteli driveline loop, American racing wheels 17/11.Rear;NT555315/35RNittos Induction; SLP Lid. MAF;de-screened with ends. Polished TB, TB by-pass, 180 stat. B-G Ram air System(hood). ASP under drive pulley. Heads; CNC ported. Cam 222/220 566/564 114lsa. Manly hardened pushrods. Car#738. 159 out of 510 T-Tops A4. All options but no TC. NA;362rwhp 354rwtq NOS (100 shot) 450rwhp 450rwtq
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